Ormers…as close to an Islander’s heart as cows, wraps and Gache. For these (some may say) ugly but delectably delicious sea snails – known elsewhere in the world as abalone – are as ingrained in Guernsey culinary heritage as cream teas and bean jars. But unlike other food favourites, the marvellous molluscs have strict rules and regulations surrounding the how and when they can be plucked and consumed, and you won’t find them at Island eateries.

Rare ormers on a rock

To celebrate the start of ‘ormering’ season we caught up with occasional ormerer, Peter Perrio, to find out more.

So Peter, tell us about the history of the ormer

We have ‘green ormers’, or ‘haliotis tuberculata’ on Guernsey.  You can find ormers from the Mediterranean up, but Guernsey is the northernmost spot.

Going ormering

The hunter-gatherer instinct has been around since the year dot and there’s nothing better than tasty seafood for free. Traditionally ormers were seen as a valuable, free food source.  Once upon a time they were relatively plentiful and easy to gather, both sustaining and tasty. I’ve been going ormering most of my life that I can remember – although I’d say I’m only moderately experienced compared to some.

Eventually the time came when the plentiful supply became depleted, partially through over fishing. Now of course they have a cachet as gourmet food and are not so easy to come by.

I love all things to do with the beach which is one of the reasons I still go.  That and the fact it’s good to keep traditions going.

Where and when can you find them?

An ormer and ormering hook

Ormers live on the algae feeding on rocks on the beach so first up you have to find a rocky area.  Some people ormer on the shore and stay dry, but we head out into the sea where people may not have already been hunting.

If the weather’s nice there may be hundreds of people out hunting for ormers on the beaches. There are then a couple of methods people use to find the ormers.

The first is by ‘turning’. You pick an area of boulders and roll them over to see if there are any on the back (making sure you replace them afterwards).  They can be quite tricky to spot, especially under the sea water, as they blend in. You really need to be an expert to find them.

Searching for Ormers

The other method is called ‘cricking’ – which is where you stick your arm into the cracks and crevices of the rocks and feel around for ormers.

Both methods can result in some serious scraping of skin from your hands as you scrabble about in the cold water! You can use an ormering hook to prise them off the rock and drag them out.

We have strict regulations about then you can go ormering and the ormering tides are published for everyone to consult.

What rules do you have to abide by?

There are now a limited number of opportunities for ormering – and even more limited opportunities for keeping them.  For example, you’re not allowed to store them unless they’ve been cooked or pickled.  In most cases you have to consume them within 48 hours.

And you’re not allowed to wear any diving equipment or go ormering in the dark.

Very occasionally you’ll be lucky to collect a few dozen.  We call any sizeable collection a ‘feed’ of ormers.  You’ll find most casserole recipes – the traditional method of cooking them – only call for four ormers per person.

And what do you do with your ormers once you’ve collected them??

There are two traditional ways of cooking the ormers – fried or casseroled.

Firstly you have to take them out of the shell and clean them up.   Like squid or scallops it’s easy to overcook them so you should either cook them quickly over a high heat or very, very slowly in a casserole.

After cleaning them I cut them into strips and fry them.   They go very well with butter, lemon and a dash of ginger or chilli.

A well cooked ormer has a bit of a bite to the texture, like al dente pasta.

When I was in New Zealand last spring a lot of the chip shops included deep fried ormer fritters and chips – delicious!

And if all this sounds too much like hard work, can you find them on any menus across the Island?

Because of the regulations of how many you can collect and the fact you can’t store or freeze them, you don’t tend to find them in any restaurants.

If you’re really lucky you may find yourself in the right place at the right time – after the last ormering tide my local pub had a few up for grabs in that night’s fish draw.  Perfect to take home and cook for your tea.

An Ormer being cleaned

If you’re inspired by Peter’s exploits, here’s his recipe for fried ormers:

(Takes 20 minutes)

First take them out of the shell and gut them – you’re looking to use the ‘foot’ – and then scrub clean.  They’re quite tough so you’re best to first wrap them in parchment or towel and beat them to tenderise.  Cut the ormers into strips and set them aside.

Next fry up some belly pork, onions and mushrooms.

Once the mixture has caramelised in the pan, add a good slosh of cider.

Stir in a fish stock cube.  Flash fry the ormers in a separate pan and add them to the mix.

Serve with steaming jacket potatoes and butter (both from Guernsey, of course)

Or try this Ormers with Guernsey Butter Recipe

Serves/Makes: 6

Ingredients:

• 1 dozen large or 18 medium ormers (abalones)

• Butter for frying

• 1 small shallot, very finely chopped

• Muscadet*

• 7 ounces (200 g) demi-sel butter (butter from France)

• 1 clove garlic, pounded

• 1 tablespoon parsley, very finely chopped

• Pepper

How to cook Ormers (Abalones) with Guernsey Butter:

1. Open ormers (abalones), clean and well tenderize. Fry in ordinary butter until brown, then drain and lay out in an oven dish.

2. Meanwhile, chop very finely a small shallot and marinated it in Muscadet for 3 or 4 hours.

3. Combine this with demi-sel butter, a pounded clove of garlic, very finely chopped parsley and a little pepper.

4. Mix thoroughly, spread over the ormers and put the dish in a moderately hot oven 400° / 200°C (gas 6) for 5 minutes.

5. Serve the baked ormers (abalones) hot.

Note:

*Muscadet is a type of dry French white wine.

The Ormers (Abalones) with Guernsey Butter Recipe adopted from a recipe in North Atlantic Seafood by Alan Davidson. The French name of this recipe is Ormeaux au Beurre Breton.

Some ormer facts (and fiction)

• The Guernsey ormer casserole recipe has been around since at least 1673
• The ormer is, perhaps, the longest-standing symbol of Guernsey
• Traditional ormering garments should be wellies, trousers and a ‘Guernsey’, accompanied by an ormering hook, and a container for the catches
• Prior to the 1990s Islanders could only fish them when there was an ‘R’ in the month
• The ormer’s chief means of protection is its ability to stick to a rock with amazing firmness, so that it has to be caught off guard to be easily removed
• In California they are called abalone, in New Zealand paua, in South Africa perlemoen and in Japan awabi

For more delicious and tradition Guernsey recipes click here.