Not just a garment, an emblem of a community of knitters orally passing down unique family patterns from generation to generation with maritime symbolism lovingly stitched into the seams of each sweater. The traditional guernsey is a nautical design classic, whose influence extends to coastal regions of the British Isles and to far reaching corners of the globe.

Front view of original WI pamphlet

But following the German occupation of the Channel Islands during the second world war, there was a chance that this iconic traditional sweater would become part of history. In fact, the instantly recognisable ‘traditional’ Guernsey pattern that we all know and love today, represents the quest of one Miss Gladys Peek, resident of St Sampsons, to retain the centuries old design back in 1945.

The occupation, an event that tore families apart and saw thousands of young people evacuated to England, proved problematic for Dgernésiais, the island’s indigenous Guernsey-French patois. After five years away, a generation returned speaking English as their first language.

Miss Gladys Peek was the chairwoman of the Guernsey Federation of Women’s Institutes just after the Occupation, which officially ended in May 9, 1945. According to Gillian Lenfestey, Costume Curator for the National Trust of Guernsey, Miss Peek realised that up to that time, the patterns for guernseys had been passed on from mother to daughter by word of mouth and the cultural impact of the occupation meant the pattern would need to be documented.

“Legend has it that Miss Peek visited St Sampsons harbour and wrote down the pattern of the guernsey that she saw local man Pilot Noyon wearing.  She then instituted a competition at the Guernsey Eisteddfod [a society that promotes and supports islander’s creativity] to produce a template for the design. The result became known as the ‘traditional’ pattern and rapidly replaced family patterns most of which have now been forgotten.” Said Lenfesty.

The oral tradition of Guernsey’s family knitting patterns petered out and few examples of the original garments remain.

You can download a copy of that original pattern subsequently made by the Society of Guernsey Women’s Institutes in 1955, given to us to share with their kind permission, here: WI Pattern 1955 2

Communities knitted together

Knitting is a practice that has bound Guernsey’s communities together for centuries. During the Middle Ages, the knitting of fine patterned stockings of worsted wool for export to England and all over Europe, became a major source of income for the island. So prestigious were these items that on 1^st January 1556 Queen Mary Tudor accepted from the Governor of Guernsey, Sir Leonard Chamberlayne, a gift of: “wastcotes, sleeves and stockings all of worsted and Guernsey manufacture” (source: The National Trust of Guernsey)

After the decline of the stocking industry in around 1800, Guernsey folk continued to knit guernseys or ‘wastecotes’.  Using 4 or 5-ply English worsted, the garment was knitted in the round with up to 16 fine needles and joined together at the shoulders. A narrow ribbed neck was cast off a usual.  Armholes were then cut in the body and the sleeve knitted down to the cuff allowing for easy unpicking and re-knitting when worn. The resulting tightly stitched garments were highly durable, wind and sea spray replant, practical items ideal for fishermen.

Distinctive family knitting patterns

The jumpers were both a source of income, and a part of a family’s heritage. Each knitted its own unique design variation.

Patterns, made by a simple combination of plain and purl stitches, may well have originated from the Tudor stocking patterns, with English names like Turk’s Head, and Peacock’s Tail. There are patterns from the western Torteval and Cobo parishes that cover the entire top half of the body and sleeves. The design now widely recognized as the ‘traditional’ Guernsey is far plainer and is said to come from the parish of St Sampsons in the north. Fishermen lost at sea could even be identified by their jumper design.

What makes a guernsey a guernsey?

A traditional guernsey is a single colour garment produced using durable tightly spun worsted wool. Its boxy shape and funnel neck mean that can be worn both ways and its close knit construction makes for a hard wearing jumper that can last for decades.

The guernsey still produced on the island retains many original design characteristics woven through with nautical symbolism: The rib at the top of the sleeve is said to represent a sailing ship’s rope ladder in the rigging, the raised seam across the shoulder a rope, and the garter stitch panel – waves breaking upon the beach. As a working garment, the gussets under the arm and at the neck are for ease of movement, as are the splits at the hem.

Jumpers manufactured in Guernsey by Guernsey Woollens

The Guernsey – a part of maritime history

The influence of seafaring Guernseymen spread the sweater design far beyond the bailiwick. ‘Ganzeys’ are still to be found around the coasts of England and Ireland the stitch patterns used became more complex the further north the garment spread, with the most complex evolving in the Scottish fishing villages. Variations also exist along the eastern seaboard of Canada and America. The term even survives in Australia where it is used for team shits.

The guernsey is also a part a British naval history forming part of the uniform of the 19^th century British Royal Navy. Guernseys may also have been worn during the Battle of Trafalgar. The association of the guernsey with the British military has continued into the 21^st century.

Photos from oki-ni.com

Vintage guernseys & the guernsey as a fashion item

The humble guernsey is currently experiencing something of a revival as a fashion item. Vintage shops in style setting UK cities such as Manchester, Brighton and London are something of a barometer of when it comes to street trends. So when ‘pre-loved’ Guernsey sweaters started to appear in shops and on the backs of a new generation of sweater fans, Guernsey manufacturers also experienced an increase in demand.

Fans of iconic fashion label Fred Perry will be familiar with its chic updated classics approach to men’s clothing. The label recently honoured the quality of the classic Guernsey jumper by placing an order for genuine guernseys embellished with the Fred Perry laurel logo, made on the island by Guernsey Woollens. The 1,000 sweaters that were included in this year’s collection even retain the manufacturer’s label as provenance that they are indeed the real deal.

• Visit the Guernsey Folk and Costume Museum at Saumarez Park for an insight into the history of Guernsey’s knitting industry the guernsey.

*With thanks to Gillian Lenfesty for her help with this post, for further information read Gillian’s excellent blog post which is referenced throughout this article.